FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

Click on the question you need answered and you will be transferred to the detail information for the subject you select.

1. Features of a Carbon Block
2. Carbon Filter Types
3. What is performance difference between carbon and sediment filters
4. What contaminants are removed by - Filters / RO Membranes / DI
5. How do I convert my RO Membrane to standard
6. What does Deionization / Deminrealization mean and what is it's purpose
7. Drain Saddle Installation
8. Faucet Installation
9. Recommended Filter Service Life / Replacement
10. Filter and RO Membrane Replacement Procedures
11. Why are filters described in terms of "microns"
12. Which type of flow restrictor is best for me
13. Jaco Fittings - Installation Instructions
14. Pre-filters for RO Systems
15. Quick Connect Fittings
16. How do I hook up to my refrigerator
17. Reverse Osmosis Information
18. What system is best for me - a Reverse Osmosis System or a Whole House unit
19. How do I start my RO System
20. Reverse Osmosis System Installation Instructions
21. How do I install my self piercing valve
22. Storage Tank Information
23. Taste difference between water from a RO System and Filters
24. Do filters affect TDS (Total Dissolved Solids)
25. What are Total Dissolved Solids (TDS)
26. Tubing Installation
27. Whole House Filter System
28. Which Wholehouse Filters should I use?
29. What are the Basis Components of a Reverse Osmosis System?
30. What is Ultraviolet?
31. How does ultraviolet light purify water?
32. Why not use chlorine instead of Ultraviolet?
33. Does an Ultraviolet system use a lot of energy?
34. Why do Ultraviolet purifiers require sediment pre-filtration?
35. How often does the UV light bulb (lamp) need to be replaced?
36. What is "cross flow" in a Reverse Osmosis system?
37. What does a Permeate pump do to improve my RO system?
38. How does the Permeate Pump reduce waste water by 80%?

1. Features Of A Carbon Block Filter

Solid Carbon Block filters have combined the incredible adsorption capability of carbon, with the ability of a solid block of material to selectively strain out particles from water that is forced through it. The density of the carbon block determines how finely the water is cleaned. This type of filter is designed to prevent any possibility of bypass due to high water pressure.

The block of carbon mechanically strains out dirt, sediment, rust, algae, bacteria, microscopic worms, cryptosporidium and asbestos. This is all accomplished by water pressure. The compacted solid carbon block filter is designed to mechanically filter particles down to sub micron size. By microstraining the water, the consumer is assured that only the cleanest, clearest water is delivered to the point of use. Activated carbon bonds to thousands of chemicals. In fact, carbon will bond to most chemicals known! When water is forced through the solid carbon block, it is forced to slow down and increase the contact time with the carbon, allowing the carbon bonding to take place to remove the chemical pollutants like toxins, pesticides, THM's, chlorine, bad tastes, odors, etc. Heavy metals like lead do not bond to the carbon, but are strained out by the pore size of the block. Basically, it's like trying to put a basketball through a hole the size of a golf ball.

2. Carbon Filter Types

What are the differences between different carbon filters?

The differences are primarily in the filters and sumps used. Cheap carbon filters use a couple of ounces of carbon sprayed on a wax like paper that is rolled up and covered in netting. There isn't very much carbon present, hence a short effective life. Granular activated carbon (GAC) filters can channel. This is when the water finds a path of low resistance and much of the carbon is bypassed. When used as pre filters for a Reverse Osmosis system or for a Whole House unit, the best type of carbon filter available today is the extruded carbon block. The carbon is ground into a fine powder, then pressed into a block under millions of pounds of force. The pore size can be controlled to the micron level. When one pore clogs, the water has thousands of other pores to travel through. This gives maximum water to carbon contact and maximum use of the carbon. The differences in sumps relates primarily to the size of the inlet and outlet and the impact of these size variances on the flow through the filters.

3. What is the performance difference between a carbon block filter and a sediment filter?

Depending on the contaminants in your water, the difference could be like night and day. Sediment filters are designed to take out dirt particles. Sediment filters do not take out chemicals etc. The purpose of a sediment filter in a dual whole house is for the sediment to get the larger particles out so the carbon block filter can do its work. Activated carbon has an electro-positive charge added which results in this type of carbon attracting more chemicals and impurities. As the water passes through the positively charged carbon, the contaminants with their negative ions, are attracted to the carbon granules and thus extracted from the water. The block of carbon strains out sediment, dirt, bacteria, microscopic worms, algae, asbestos and cryptosporidium. With just water pressure, this compacted solid carbon block is designed to filter sub micron size particles. This microstraining of the water will provide the cleanest and clearest drinking water available.

Activated carbon bonds to thousands of known chemicals. As water is forced through this solid block of carbon, it is forced to slow its flow speed and thereby increase the contact time with the carbon. This slowing of the flow allows the carbon bonding to take place and remove chemical pollutants like toxins, THM's, chlorine, pesticides, bad tastes, odors, etc. As you can tell, the responsibilities of the two filters is quite different. You need to make the choice based on what you need and want to get out of your water.

Differences between a Carbon Block and a GAC

Solid Carbon Block Filters are exceptionally uniform and do not channel or bypass as conventional granular activated carbon (GAC) filters are known to do. Because of the density of the solid carbon block, there is no room for bacteria to grow so this type of filter does not become an incubator for bacteria as GAC filter is known to be.

4. What Contaminants are Removed by-Filters/RO Membranes/DI

DI Cartridges and In-line DI Filters: Deionization removes ions (heavy metals or salts) dissolved into the water. RO membranes: Membranes remove bacteria, virus, metals, salts (ions). Carbon Filters: Carbon block filters absorb chemicals and filter particulate matter. Sediment filters: Sediments filter out particulate matter only.

The top quality water purification system is built in this manner: Sediment filter: designed to remove large sediment and particulate matter from the water. The sediment filter should have as large a micron rating as practical, we suggest ten micron. The stage two (2) is a carbon filter. This is where chemicals start to be removed from the water. There are many different carbon filters on the market. The best carbon filters are block type. We recommend a coconut carbon block and in stage two (2) we recommend a rating of five micron. In a properly designed system there will be a second carbon stage - pre-filter number three (3). We recommend a one micron coconut carbon block filter. Why two carbon filters? Just ask any one about chloramines and ammonia leakage. With today's environmental concerns, in many areas one carbon systems are not achieving a satisfactory removal of sediment and chemical particulate matter. The membrane stage is where all of the real work is done. The membrane pores are hundreds of times smaller than a one micron filter. This is the first stage of the system to impact the bacteria, virus, pathogens, endotoxins and the TDS (total dissolved solids). The pre-filters, even if you use all one micron, have no impact on the TDS of the finished water. RO membranes are generally rated to remove 95% to 98% of the dissolved metals and salts in the water. Of course that 95% to 98% is when the RO membrane is new. Over time, that percentage begins to drop, leaving more and more for the DI to remove. We suggest that you replace your RO membrane when the TDS of the water coming from the membrane drops below 90%. If you let your RO membrane continue to operate below 90% you will be using DI resin at a much faster rate because the DI resin will continue to gather in what gets passed the RO membrane and correspondingly the DI resin will become saturated much more quickly. Next, the DI. The ion dissolved metals and salts that are missed by the membrane are captured by the DI resin. Provided you monitor your finished product water, you will know when the DI resin has gathered in all that it can hold and it is time to replace the DI resin. So a properly designed RO/DI system provides sediment, bacteria, chemical, virus, and dissolved metals free water. Just about as close to pure as you can get. Nothing provides more protection for your water at any where near the cost of production nor is as environmentally friendly. RO/DI = ZERO.

5. How do I Convert my RO Membrane To Standard ?

"Proprietary" RO Membrane to a standard membrane

Many owners of "proprietary" style RO systems convert their systems to use a standard membrane housing and a standard RO membrane and in doing so they save a bundle of money and the product is more readily available. Converting a "proprietary" (non-standard) RO system to a standard RO system is actually quite easy. Simply replace your membrane housing with a standard size housing. See our instructions on how to disconnect the tubing and reconnect the tubing to the new housing (this information is in the instruction manual section of our web site). This works on all systems other than those that use a "manifold' system. A manifold system is one that makes the connections in the plastic head without using tubing to connect the separate components. Manifold systems must use the original size membrane.

Non-Standard RO Systems

If your RO system has a TW30 - 1810 membrane and proprietary sediment and carbon filters, you can convert to an industry standard system by replacing the basis system but retaining your current storage tank, tubing and faucet. The cost of a new basic industry standard RO system will likely be no greater than the cost to replace the expensive proprietary RO membrane and filters. Then the next time you need to replace the RO membrane or replace the filters, the cost of replacement will be less than half the cost of the proprietary replacement parts. Installation of the new replacement basic RO system is not difficult. Your current RO system has tubing in place to deliver incoming source water to the pre-filter(s), tubing going to the drain and tubing to move product water from the RO system to the storage tank. In addition, there is tubing from the storage tank to the faucet. All of these tubes, the saddle valve (for source water) and the drain clamp can be used with the new RO system. Correspondingly, installation of the new system is quite easy. Disconnect the tubing from the current RO system and reconnect them to the new unit. We have instructions to direct you through the conversion process.

Increase The GPD Capacity of My RO System

A membrane upgrade is actually quite easy on most reverse osmosis systems. Simply replace the membrane with the desired capacity and then properly size the flow restrictor to match the capacity of the membrane. These must be matched to keep the proper water flow over the membrane surface. Miss-matched membranes and flow restrictors will either cause excessive waste to the drain or premature membrane fouling. A standard size membrane housing will take a standard RO membrane ( TW30-1812 is standard and the membrane measures 1.8 inches by 11.75 inches point to point). If you have a "proprietary" type RO membrane and housing, see our comments on converting a "proprietary" unit to standard.

6. What does Deionization/Demineralization (DI) mean and what is it's purpose?

Demineralization by Ion Exchange. DI is a mixed bed of resins which attract ions, salts or minerals and can entirely remove the metals and salts from your water. If your Reverse Osmosis system removes (95 - 98 %) of the minerals and salts, then you could follow it up with a D.I. cartridge or a D.I. in-line filter to remove almost 100 % of the TDS (Total Dissolved Solids), which would render your water with a TDS of 0 to 1 ppm. Your RO membrane rejection percentage will have a direct impact on the life of your DI cartridge or DI in-line filter. The DI will absorb everything in the water that is left behind by the RO membrane. Therefore, if your water usage requires a product with a zero (0) TDS, DI is the answer.

What's the difference between color-indicating DI resin and non color-indicating DI resin?

Color changing DI resin has a water soluble dye that will change it's color and thereby yield a general indicator when the resin is exhausted (depleted). We offer both color indicating (i.e., color-changing) resin, and non color indicating resin. They are identical resins except for the dye. Bear in mind that the color-changing feature as a very general indicator only. You can commonly continue to use the resin for weeks or months after it begins to change color. It is best to use a TDS meter to monitor how well the resin is performing, and when it's time for a new resin refill. Although there are no known harmful effects of the dye, we would suggest that you use the non-color changing dye if you have the availability of a TDS meter.

7. Drain Saddle Installation

Sink With A Disposal - Best choice is the vertical pipe above the horizontal pipe from garbage disposal.

Sink Without A Disposal - It is best to choose the vertical sink drain pipe at a height as high above the water level in the trap as possible. The drain line may also run directly into a laundry tub or open floor drain. Remember, the drain line can run uphill for several feet. Position the drain saddle away from the dish washer drain to avoid any possible conflict.

Installation Instructions - Drill a 1/4" hole through one side of the drain pipe. Be careful to remove any "burrs" after you have completed the drilling. Position the gasket over the center of the hole between pipe and drain saddle. Then position the hole in the drain saddle directly over the hole in the drain pipe. Firmly tighten the screws on the drain saddle while maintaining the proper position of the drain saddle on the pipe.

8. Faucet Installation

Usually there is an extra hole for the mounting of sprayers, various types of dispensers or even adding an extra faucet. Should your sink not have an additional pre-drilled hole, use the following procedure. Select a Location for the Faucet Start by checking under the sink to make sure there is sufficient space and there are no obstructions. Position a pan under sink to catch any metal filings and thereby avoid a clean up mess. Stainless Steel Sink. Do some measuring to insure that you will be locating the new faucet a sufficient distance from the existing faucets to allow all of the faucets to rotate in a proper working fashion. Be certain there will be adequate space to secure the lock nut. With a center punch, make an indentation in sink surface where you have selected the spot for the new faucet. This indentation will help hold alignment of hole saw. Drill a of the size indicated in the information you received in the shipping box. Porcelain Coated Sink. Most manufacturers recommend to have this type of sink drilled by a professional because of potential damage due to chipping or cracking. Should you attempt to drill, use a Relton Cutter with adequate cooling lubricant and exercise extreme care. Should you elect to not drill into the sink, you could install the faucet directly into the adjacent countertop. Be certain to position the faucet at a location that will allow the end of the spout to reach over the sink.

Installing Standard Non-Air-Gap Faucet:

(1) Once the hole is prepared, assemble those parts of the faucet that belong above the sink. First, the faucet spout. Some faucet spouts have threads, most do not. It is not necessary to tighten the faucet spout. It is preferable to let it move freely thereby allowing you to move the faucet out of the way when you wish. Insert the faucet stem into the hole in the faucet body. No plumber's putty is needed, since the small round rubber washers will provide the seal.
(2) The small, flat, black rubber washer goes underneath the faucet body, then the large chrome base plate, and then the large black rubber washer.
(3) From under the sink, slide on the thick black plastic washer first, then slide on the locknut & screw on the brass hex retaining nut. Tighten firmly into place once the faucet is properly aligned. If a small adjustment is needed from above, pad the jaws of the wrench, so as not to scratch the chrome finish.

9. Recommended Filter Service Life/Replacement

Sediment Pre-Filter - It is best to change a sediment filter every 6 months (more frequently when there is a high level of dirt and rust present in the water).

Carbon Pre-Filter - It is best to change a carbon filter every 6 months. Proper pre-filter maintenance will help insure membrane life and water quality.

R.O. Membrane - The R.O. membrane can last up to 5 years (and longer) with proper maintenance. When the rejection rate falls below 85% it is best that you replace the RO membrane. With the use of a TDS (Total Dissolved Solids) meter, the rejection rate should be tested every 6 months (more frequently if you have a high TDS count in your incoming water). The frequency of TDS testing should increase as the RO membrane ages. This allows you to compare the amount of TDS in the incoming water vs. the drinking water.

Carbon Post Filter - This is the polishing filter for the RO system and therefore you should maintain it for providing you the best water possible. Change this filter every 6 months to insure quality water and don't wait until taste is a problem.

DI Resin - DI resin is available in both regular nuclear grade and color changing. Both will provide the same quality of water (zero TDS). Even when you are using color changing DI, it is advisable for you to use a TDS meter for an accurate assessment of your water quality. If your water usage requires the extra pure water that is achieved with DI, then you should be prepared to replace the DI resin when the TDS count reaches 5 to 6 TDS.

Reverse Osmosis systems require periodic maintenance to insure you are getting the water quality that your usage requires. The most important maintenance is your timely filter changes. Filters require replacement at recommended intervals because they retain large amounts of debris and contaminants. Failure to change filters (and replace them with quality filters) can reduce membrane life and water quality dramatically. Remember, most contaminants don't have a foul taste except in extreme quantities. As noted previously, don't wait until you have bad tasting water before you make filter changes.

10. Filter And Membrane Replacement Procedures

We offer a wide range of RO systems from two stage up to six stage systems and options within the given stages. To just sight an example, we offer over 30 different models of 5 stage RO systems. In total, we offer over 150 different RO system models. Therefore, the information listed below is not specific to any given model but is specific only to the given housing and filter or membrane. As an example, if your RO system has 3 pre-filters, the comments about carbon filters will relate to both of your carbon pre-filters. The sediment pre-filter is the first vertically mounted filter in a standard 3, 4, 5 and 6 stage RO system (remember, the incoming water enters from the right side of the RO system, so the first vertical housing is the housing on the right). The second vertical filter is a carbon pre-filter in a standard 3, 4 , 5 or 6 stage RO system. The third pre-filter is a carbon in a standard 5 or 6 stage RO system. The RO membrane is the lower and larger horizontally mounted housing that has an end cap that unscrews. Mounted horizontally above the membrane housing is the in-line carbon (polish) filter on 4, 5 and 6 stage RO systems. The 6 stage system also has an in-line DI filter which is mounted horizontally next to the in-line carbon filter. These comments relate to standard RO systems and some non-standard, proprietary systems may vary from this configuration.

Sediment And Carbon Pre-filters - Turn the valve off on self piercing valve (the inlet source for the incoming water). Next, turn the ball valve off on the storage tank. Open the R.O. faucet at the kitchen sink (or wherever you installed it) to de-pressurize system. Unscrew filter housings by turning counter clock wise (for easy servicing, be certain to use your housing wrench) - NOTE - remove only one housing at a time so you do not mix the housings or type of filter. Remove the old (depleted) filter and discard. Clean the filter bowl with warm soapy water. Then rinse and add one table spoon of liquid household bleach and fill the housing with water. After letting it stand for 5 minutes, empty the housing and rinse well with tap water. Insert the replacement filter into the housing. Do not touch the filter. By using the wrapper to handle the new filter your hands will not induce bacteria that will grow and foul the water. Inspect the "O" rings and replace as necessary. Hand tighten and use a wrench only if the housing leaks.

Post Carbon Filter - Release the quick-connect fitting from both ends of the in-line post filter and remove the tubes. Unscrew and remove the quick-connect fittings from the in-line filter. Discard old filter. Wrap the threaded end of the quick-connect fitting with Teflon tape and re-install into each end of the new post filter. Tighten the threaded end of the fitting into the ends of the new filter. Be certain the arrow on the new filter is pointing with the flow of the water toward the tubing leading to the faucet.

R.O. Membrane - Turn the water off at the inlet saddle valve and open the RO faucet to drain the storage tank. When the storage tank has been emptied, close the RO faucet. Next, close the valve on the storage tank. Disconnect the tubing going into the end of the membrane housing on the end that has only one tube going into it. Once you have removed the tubing, unscrew the end cap of the membrane housing. Have a container in place as water will pour out. Remove the old membrane from the housing (this may take an extra pull as they sometimes fix very tight) and clean the inside of the membrane housing with warm soapy water. Grease the "o" ring with food grade oil. Insert the new membrane in the direction of the arrow on the membrane. The end with the two small "O" rings goes in first on the regular, industry standard membranes. The end with the large rubber ring (brine seal) goes in last, next to the removable end cap. Be certain that the center tube of the membrane is seated properly into the receiver in the bottom of the housing. Push firmly! Screw the end cap back on and reconnect the tubing into the fitting on the end of the membrane housing.

Open the RO faucet. Open the inlet saddle valve to feed water to the RO system. Do not open the storage tank valve at this time. Allow the water to drip from the faucet for at least 1 hour. This procedure will fulfill the requirement of flushing the RO membrane as may be described on the membrane packaging. After one hour, close the RO faucet and open the storage tank valve. Allow the system to fill the tank and shut off. Then open the faucet and drain the tank. Repeat this 2 more times, for a total of 3 full tanks to fill and then drain. This will flush the preservative from the membrane and remove any black, dirt looking, carbon fines from the water before using the water for drinking or aquarium usage.

Storage Tank Air Pressure - Check the air pressure in the storage tank each time that you change filters. It is important that the correct air pressure (factory setting of 7 psi) is maintained to provide the proper flow of RO water to the usage points. When checking the air pressure in the storage tank, be certain the water has been emptied out of the bladder.

11. Why are filters described in terms of microns?

Filters are commonly described by the size of the pores in the material that makes up the given filter. This stated pore size is the maximum size particle that will flow through a filter. A micron is 1/1,000,000th of a meter or approximately 0.00004 inches. Manufacturers rate filters based upon this pore size, however there is no industry standard technique to express the ratings. Some manufacturers/retailers claim filter ratings expressed using "nominal" numbers. Others claim filter ratings using "absolute" numbers. Many (most) don't tell you which rating system they are claiming. For example, a 5 micron absolute filter removes a very high percentage (approaching 100.0%) of particles 5 microns or larger; while a 5 micron nominal filter will remove approximately 85% of particles 5 microns or larger.

What do I look for to know that I have a good carbon block cartridge

Perhaps the two most important considerations would be pore size and chlorine capacity. The smaller the pore size, the greater protection the carbon block offers you through your Whole House unit or your RO membrane. But remember the smaller the pore size the more impact the carbon block filter will have on your gpm flow (gallons per minute). Carbon block cartridges with a pore size of 5 or 10 microns are the most common in the industry. Carbon blocks with smaller pore sizes will remove additional particles but are generally not necessary if the carbon block filters are being used as pre-filters for a RO system. As for chlorine capacity, most replacement filters have a 6,000 to 8,000 gallon chlorine removal rating. Most original equipment manufacturers will install carbon filters with a 2,000 to 4,000 gallon chlorine removal rating. Because your sediment cartridge should be in line ahead of the carbon block, the primary purpose of the carbon cartridge (the work horse of filters) is to remove VOCs - volatile organic compounds, and specifically we really want to remove chlorine.

What is the timing for me to replace my filters?

An accepted industry standard (and good rule of thumb) is to replace your sediment filter and carbon block after six months. If you have pressure gauges installed on your system, this will permit you to observe when the water pressure reaching the membrane starts to decline. This is your indication that one or both of the filters is beginning to plug.

12. Which type of flow restrictor is best for me?

There are four types of flow restrictors being used by RO system manufacturers; 1) Inline Flow Restrictor, 2) Capillary Insert Flow Restrictor, 3) Fitting Connector Flow Restrictor Combo and 4) Integral Flow Restrictor. We will provide a brief description of each and give the strong features and weak features that each type offers.

1) Inline Flow Restrictor - The strong point for this type of flow restrictor is the ease of installation. Many of this type of restrictors have the quick connect feature built into the unit wherein the installer can merely insert the drain line into each end of the flow restrictor and you are ready to go. The two major weakness of this system are cost and lack of a check valve for safety purposes. Read about the safety features of the "combo flow restrictor" to completely understand our comments about drain line safety. The cost of an inline flow restrictor increases because this system requires three parts to be equal with one part in a "combo". First is the inline flow restrictor, second is the fitting that is inserted into the membrane housing and then attached to the drain line tubing. The third is optional but one that we consider very important and that is a check valve to prevent drain water from flowing back into the membrane.

2) Capillary Insert - This is a small plastic piece that fits inside the drain tubing usually where the drain tubing attaches to the fitting at the drain outlet on the membrane housing. The plus for this type of flow restrictor is the cost. On the minus side, capillary inserts do not have a check valve (as noted for the inline flow restrictors) and they can be less than service friendly if you do not get the capillary to seat properly.

3) Fitting Connector Flow Restrictor Combo - This type of flow restrictor is a fitting that is inserted into the drain outlet on the membrane housing. It serves three functions. Its first function is as the connection between the RO membrane housing and the drain tubing. Secondly, it is the flow restrictor wherein it regulates the flow of water over the membrane to obtain the best performance from the membrane. Third, it is also a check valve on the drain line. The check valve safety feature is one aspect of the drain line that is overlooked by many manufacturers and RO system owners. Without a check valve in the drain line, if the drain plugs, the drain line will back up into the RO membrane and create all sorts of problems. Correspondingly, we encourage RO owners to give consideration to installing some type of check valve in the drain line for safety purposes.

4) Integral Flow Restrictor - This type of flow restrictor is made as a part of the membrane housing. Usually these flow restrictors are in an encapsulated membrane or sealed membrane housing that can not be opened. The entire housing and membrane are replaced each time. Since the housing cannot be opened the flow restrictor cannot be accessed. While more expensive each time, it is easy to change.

How do I install a flow restrictor fitting in the membrane housing?

These instructions are for the installation of a flow restrictor fitting (as a replacement or upgrading of system capacity) into the membrane housing. The flow restrictor is installed into the drain port (outlet) on the membrane housing. Your membrane housing will have two ports on one end and only one port on the other end. The end that has two ports is where you want to install this fitting. The drain port will have tubing going to the drain. The other port on the same end will have a short line going to the auto control valve so you can easily tell which port to install the flow restrictor. You will currently have a fitting in the drain port with the drain tubing connected to it. Take the tubing out of the fitting and then remove the fitting from the port. Examine the fitting to see if it is a flow restrictor (if it is open on both ends of the fitting, it is not a flow restrictor and then you will have an in-line flow restrictor that needs to be removed also. Screw the new flow restrictor into the port and the insert the tubing into the other end of the flow restrictor fitting. Tighten the nut around the tubing and you will be ready to go.

13. Jaco Fittings

Installation Instructions

1. Cut the tubing end squarely and remove the internal and external burrs.

2. Insert the tubing through the back of the nut all the way through the nut assembly to the tube stop in the fitting body (see illustration). If the tubing does not enter the nut easily, loosen the nut one turn and then insert the tubing all the way to the tube stop in the fitting body.

3. Turn the nut hand tight.

4. Wrench tighten the nut 1-1/2 to 2 turns.

5. All nuts must be re-tightened when the system reaches projected operating temperature.

NOTE: It is not necessary to disassemble this fitting for application. Merely insert tubing to stop and tighten seal.

NOTE: Squeaking sound when tightening nut is normal. For pipe threaded connections, Teflon Tape must be used.

14. Pre-Filters For RO Systems

What type of filters should I use as pre-filters for my reverse osmosis system and which micron ratings?

We recommend using what we refer to as a step-down, progressive system. The idea behind a step down micron rating system of filters is to provide for optimum pressure and longer filter life. The pre-filter micron rating required to optimize the life of a reverse osmosis membrane is five (5) micron (this is the recommendation of membrane manufacturers such as Filmtec, by far the leading manufacturer of RO membranes). Reverse Osmosis manufacturers do not ask for more protection than 5 micron. Also, be certain to check that the sediment and carbon block filters you purchase are NSF and FDA certified and approved. Do not use GAC (Granulated Activated Carbon) filters as a pre-filter in your RO system as the incoming water pressure is too great and the GAC filter will channel (GAC filters work well as post filters).

A filter step-down, progressive system is designed so that each filter does the work required of it, and protects the next filter in line. Over loading the first pre-filter, by using a low micron sediment filter, will only cause the first filter to plug and just load it up immediately, causing a great deal of pressure loss.

When you have a three pre-filter system, we recommend: 1) use a ten (10) micron sediment filter for your first stage, not a lower micron rated filter! 2) Next, install a quality five micron (5) carbon block filter for the second stage. The ten micron filter has removed the dirt and sediment over ten microns from the water, protecting the five micron filter. Now the work horse of filters (carbon block) can remove contaminants between 5 and 10 micron because the 10 micron sediment has already removed the larger particles. 3) In the third stage, install a .5 or one (1) micron carbon block filter. You have now accomplished filtration down to .5 or one micron, five or ten times the manufactures requirements. You have not plugged up your system and thereby avoided a great deal of pressure loss. So to summarize; the ten protects the five, the five protects the .5 or one, and the .5 or one micron exceeds the requirement to protect the membrane by a factor of five or ten, so your membrane sees only .5 or one micron contaminants... one/fifth or one/tenth the requirement.

15. Quick Connect Fittings

Installation Instructions

Across a host of applications, "quick connect" products require no special tools. Simply cut the tube square and insert it into the fitting to effect a secure and reliable connection. Thus, this type of fitting has become the water industry's most popular fitting products because they offer the most reliable and cost effective solution to tubing connections. Above is a diagram of how to install "quick connect" fittings. We have displayed the Mur-lok diagram, however these instructions are applicable to all "quick connect" fittings regardless of the manufacturing brand.

Insert tube into fitting

Push the tubing through the collet and O-ring until it bottoms out against the tube stop. The collet holds the tube in place and the O-ring provides a leak resistant seal.

Test and inspect

Push and pull the tubing toward and away from the fitting to ensure that it has been installed properly. Test and inspect the installation for any leaks.

Tube Removal

Relieve pressure from the tubing and fitting. Push uniformly around the collet flange against the fitting body while pulling the tubing away from the fitting to release it.

16. How do I Hook up to my Refrigerator?

Step 1 - Install a quick-connect "Tee" in the tubing going from the RO system to the faucet.

Step 2 - Install a 1/4" poly propylene tube (it is best to not exceed 30' from the R.O. system) and connect to the refrigerator. If it is necessary to have over a 30' run, use 3/8" tubing for best results. Do not use copper.

Step 3 - It is suggested to install a ball valve on the tubing going to the refrigerator for servicing and start up purposes. Be certain to keep ball valve turned off until the start up procedures have been completed and R.O. tank is completely full and ready to drink.

IMPORTANT: Never turn the ice maker on until you have a full tank of water and thereby avoid causing damage to the ice makers' solenoid.

17. Reverse Osmosis Information

What's the life of a RO membrane?

The life span of a RO membrane depends on 1) the contaminant level of your water, 2) the maintenance program you follow for changing your pre-filters and 3) the amount of water you use. Membranes can usually operate well for a couple of years but will last up to five or more years under good conditions. To test the membrane, measure the total dissolved solids (TDS) of the water coming into the membrane and the RO product water as it leaves the membrane housing outlet. Compare the two TDS numbers by dividing the RO TDS by the incoming water TDS. If the percentage is greater than 15%, you need to test again in a few weeks and be prepared to replace the RO membrane when the percentage approaches 20% as that would indicate your rejection has fallen to 80%. You will likely also notice that the RO membrane will be producing less water as the rejection percentage declines.

If I install a new RO membrane with a gpd rating different than the original, do I need to make any other changes?

Yes, it is necessary to match the capacity of the RO membrane and the flow restrictor. Unless the capacity of these two items are matched, you will either be putting too much water to the drain or you will pre-maturely foul the RO membrane. See our comments on flow restrictors for added information.

Membrane Specifications

With the exception of a few proprietary RO system manufacturers, all US membranes are the same size and all fit in the same housing. When the residential RO market first started to come alive, nearly all of the membranes where 8 to 10 gallons per day units. Many of the proprietary membranes are still under 25 gallons per day production capability. But the vast majority of the RO systems being sold today are 50 , 75 and 100 gallons per day units.

To better understand how membrane manufacturers rate the capacity of their membranes, you need to be aware that membrane manufacturers establish the gallons per day production for a membrane based on the following criteria:
1) Incoming water at 77 degrees Fahrenheit
2) Incoming water at 65 PSI
3) TDS (Total Dissolved Solids) of 200

Not very often do we find these three conditions existing in real life situations. Correspondingly, most RO system users are unable to achieve the level of production indicated by the manufacturers ratings. Bear in mind that it is possible to achieve greater production capacity than the rating from the membrane manufacturers if your water temperature is greater than 77 degrees (F) or you have more than 65 PSI flowing through the incoming water. Some marketers of membranes rate the membranes they are selling to have production capacity greater than the ratings listed by the manufacturer. Some will indicate 85 gpd from a truly 75 gpd membrane. They could well have achieved those numbers but they have altered the water temperature or increased the PSI upward and are in fact quoting unachievable ratings in the real world.

RO membranes are self-flushing provided there is a match between the RO membrane and the flow restrictor. To operate properly (and to extend the life of the RO membrane) there needs to be approximately 3 times the amount of water going to drain as compared with the product water going to the storage tank. The ratio of water flowing through the membrane is the function of the flow restrictor. If the flow restrictor is too small, you will be causing pre-mature fouling of the RO membrane. If you are sending too much water to the drain, this will be costing you money.

The life of a membrane is directly related to the care and support given by the owner. If you do not change your pre-filters every 6 months, you will likely be shortening the life of your RO membrane. Proper care of the pre-filters could extend the life of a RO membrane out to 5 years or more. Chlorine will quickly foul up a TFC membrane. You must be certain that there is sufficient carbon capacity in your carbon pre-filter to avoid chlorine wiping out your RO production capacity.

TDS Meter

Check the TDS of your product water more frequently as the membrane goes passed a year in service. Remember that if the level of PSI falls, the production of RO water will also fall. Likewise, a drop in water temperature will also reduce RO water production. And finally, as TDS begins to rise, test more often as the membrane is beginning to foul and the quality of water coming from your storage tank will become unacceptable requiring you to replace the "old" RO membrane.

18. What system is best for me, a Reverse Osmosis unit or a Whole House unit?

Reverse Osmosis vs. Whole House

As you are likely already aware, whole house units are designed to clean up water for utility purposes (bathing, toilet, dishes etc.). Reverse Osmosis (RO) systems are designed for removal of ions from the water for use as drinking water and in aquariums (low TDS usage). RO systems capable of doing both drinking and utility purposes for a whole house are expensive (they are available) - cost will be in the thousands of dollars depending on conditions. Therefore, most people who want top quality drinking water will purchase a RO system like our 4 stage, 5 stage or 6 stage systems. Units like this are known as a residential RO system, designed with capacity for drinking and aquarium purposes only. A whole house unit is designed to clean the water for the whole house but the filters are only capable of getting contaminants out down to .5 or one micron. Most heavy metals require filtration below one micron and that is where the RO systems come into play, as a RO membrane goes down to angstroms (it takes 10,000 angstroms to equal 1 micron). Bottom line in all of this is you will need to make a decision if cleaning water to one micron is sufficient for your situation or not. A whole house unit will take care of the color, taste and odor problems, but they won't handle heavy metal. Possibly you might consider installing a whole house unit and have it clean up your water to the one micron level. Then make a determination if the contaminants in your water require you to go to the next level and add a RO system for drinking water or aquarium use. This information is applicable to all industry whole house units and all RO systems, regardless of the manufacturer.

19. How do I start my RO SYSTEM ?

Step 1 - Shut the storage tank valve off to avoid any water from entering the storage tank. Then turn on the cold water supply valve to the sink. Check for leaks around self piercing valve.

Step 2 - Open R.O. faucet on sink. Then open valve on the self piercing valve to turn on water to the RO system. You will hear water gurgling as it fills the RO system. It may take up to 15 minutes before dripping out of the faucet and at first the water may be black because of the carbon filter (s). Let water drip out of faucet for 15 minutes and then close faucet.

Step 3 - Open the ball valve on storage tank. If this is a new RO system, you will need to let the tank fill for 6 to 10 hours. Then open the RO faucet which you installed previously. Drain the tank completely - possibly 15 to 20 minutes. Close the RO faucet and repeat this procedure two more times before using the water for drinking purposes. If you are changing filters, your tank will likely already be full, so you can open the faucet and empty the storage tank. Then proceed to rinse the tank two more times.

Step 4 - Check for leaks frequently during the first week and then occasionally thereafter.

20. Reverse Osmosis System Installation Instructions

Item 1 - Location

In the real estate business they commonly say "location, location, location" is the most important thing. That is also somewhat true in positioning a Reverse Osmosis unit. A Reverse Osmosis (RO) System is designed to fit under most sinks. It can also be installed in the utility area or in a basement. Of course the tubing will then need to be extended up to the faucet and/or ice maker. It can be installed in any location that will not present a problem of freezing in the winter. Basement installations will provide easy access for filter changes and often a basement location will provide a better connection access to a refrigerator icemaker or a second faucet location. One other important factor is that it does not take up valuable space under your kitchen sink. In situations where cold weather is not a factor, an attached garage might offer a good location. The vast majority of RO units are installed under the sink, correspondingly, these installation instructions will address an under the sink installation.

Item 2 - Preparation

Remove all items from the shipping package. Some models of Reverse Osmosis systems are shipped fully installed. If the model you have purchased has the filters and membrane installed, you can skip Item Three and go to Item Four.

Item 3 - Install Filters and RO Membrane

Install filters and membrane in housings. The white 10" sediment filter goes in the first filter housing. This is the inlet feed water and is the one on the right. The 10" carbon block filter goes in the second filter housing (for RO systems with three pre-filters, install a second carbon block filter in the third housing). This would be the second housing on the left (second and third on a unit with three pre-filters). The RO membrane will be installed in the horizontal housing on top of the pre-filter housings. Be certain to screw all housings to a tight position. The rubber "O Rings" will create a seal when securely tightened. If your system has an inline DI filter, please review the installation instructions under DI.

Item 4 - Now let us get aquatinted with some of the parts on the system that are already installed and ready to operate.

The ASO Valve.

It is positioned on the mounting bracket just behind the RO membrane housing (see the diagram for the RO membrane housing location). The ASO (Auto Shut Off) valve is the monitor for starting the RO system and stopping the production when the storage tank is full. When the storage tank drops to 65%, the ASO opens and allows the incoming water to rush in through the ASO to the RO membrane housing where the system purifies the incoming water. When the tank is full, the ASO valve closes and the incoming water is no longer allowed to enter and production of purified water ceases. A few comments to identify the connections to the ASO valve:
1. The Red tubing coming from the last pre-filter attaches to the "in" high pressure on the ASO.
2. The Red tubing attached to the "out" on the ASO goes to the inlet on the RO membrane.
3. The Blue tubing coming out of the RO membrane housing goes to the "in" on the low pressure of the ASO. The fitting that screws into the RO membrane housing for the Blue tubing to attach onto is also the check valve.
4. The blue tubing coming out of the ASO goes to the tee on the inlet of the in-line carbon filter (if your unit has an in-line carbon) or directly to the storage tank when an in-line carbon is not present.

The Flow Restrictor (Fitting Connector Flow Restrictor Combo)

This type of flow restrictor is a fitting that is inserted into the drain outlet on the membrane housing. It serves three functions. Its first function is as the connection between the RO membrane housing and the drain tubing. Secondly, it is the flow restrictor wherein it regulates the flow of water over the membrane to obtain the best performance from the membrane. Third, it is also a check valve on the drain line. The check valve safety feature is one aspect of the drain line that is overlooked by many manufacturers and RO system owners. Without a check valve in the drain line, if the drain plugs, the drain line will back up into the RO membrane and create all sorts of problems. Correspondingly, we encourage RO owners to give consideration to installing some type of check valve in the drain line for safety purposes.

Item 5 - Mount Unit

If space permits and you desire to hang the filter housings on the side of the cabinet, use the holes in the filter housing mounting bracket to mark the locations to drill to install (2) mounting screws and screw into side wall. There should be sufficient clearance below the bottom of the housings, so that you can place a container to catch water when the filters are being replaced. Position the unit and hang the system to see if sufficient room was allowed. The tank needs to be positioned on firm surface. Access to the shut-off valve on tank is important and you should not obstruct the shut-off on cold water line. The tank can be set upright or laid horizontally. The closer the tank is to the faucet, the better the flow will be, however you can position the tank as much as 50 feet from the faucet. Remove and set aside filter housings and tank for now.

Item 6 - Self Piercing Valve

When installing the "Self Piercing Tap Valve" on copper lines be certain to install it in-line after the cold water shut-off valve ( never install on the hot water line). Mount and tighten the "self piercing valve" on the copper line in a easy to reach location. Turn the saddle valve clockwise all the way in. This will drive the sharp end of a sharp metal pierce into the copper tubing and will pierce a tiny hole. When the saddle valve has been turned all of the way in, the valve is the "off" position for your new RO system. Do not do anything further with the saddle valve at this time. Leave it like this until later in the installation process.

Item 7 - Drain Saddle

Sink With Disposal - The vertical pipe above the horizontal pipe from garbage disposal is the best choice for a location to install the drain saddle on a sink with a disposal.

For a sink without a disposal The best choice is the vertical drain pipe as high above the water level in the trap as possible. Try to keep the saddle as far away from the dish washer and waste disposal drains as you can. Do not use the body of the saddle as a guide for your drill. The threads of the drain saddle may be damaged. To install, drill a 1/4" hole through one side of the drain pipe. Remove any "burrs" created from drilling. This will help prevent debris from plugging drain hole. Align and center gasket on hole between pipe and drain saddle. Align the hole in the drain saddle with the hole in the drain pipe. Tighten down the drain saddle firmly.

Item 8 - Selecting RO Faucet Location

Many sinks have an extra hole for the mounting of additional faucets, sprayers or soap dispensers. If your sink does not have an additional hole, you will need to drill a hole as follows: First, determine the location for the faucet hole. Before you begin drilling, check underneath sink making certain there are no obstructions.

Stainless Steel Sink Carefully mark the faucet location, making certain that it is far enough away enough from the regular water faucet(s) so that they don't interfere with the operation of each other. Be certain there is sufficient clearance to tighten the lock nut from below, before you begin the drilling procedure. Use center punch to make an indentation in sink surface to help hold alignment of to drill the hole. Drill a 1 1/4" hole, and then smooth out rough edges with a file if required.

Porcelain Coated Sink The manufacturer recommends to have this type of sink professionally drilled because of possibility of chipping or cracking. If you are attempting to drill, use extreme caution. Use a Relton Cutter with adequate cooling lubricant.

You may also install the faucet directly into the countertop if you do not want to drill the sink. Position the faucet at the location to be drilled to make certain that the end of the spout will reach over the sink. Feel underneath the countertop to make certain there is no obstruction that would prevent proper faucet installation.

Item 9 - Installing Faucet

Once the hole is prepared, assemble those parts of the faucet that belong above the sink. Remove the nut from the threaded portion of the faucet (underneath the faucet body). Next, slide the middle sized black flat washer on to the threaded portion of the faucet. Then add the chrome cover followed by the larger black washer. When you have these three items added to the faucet you are ready to insert the faucet into the hole discussed in Item 7 above. The black washers will provide the seal for the faucet. From underneath the sink, slide on the thick black plastic washer first, then slide on the lock washer and then attached the nut. Tighten firmly into place once the faucet is properly aligned.

Faucet Tube Connect 1/4" tube to threaded connector on the bottom of the faucet. This is the center post of the faucet. Use supplied hex nut and plastic ferrule. Cut to length and connect the other end to the incoming water source (RO system, under counter filter etc.). Tighten firmly.

Item 10 - Preparing The Storage Tank

Using Teflon tape, wrap the threads on the tank 3 or 4 times (don't use any other type of pipe compounds). Screw the plastic ball valve on to the Teflon taped threads on the tank (approximately 4 to 5 full turns - do not over tighten - ball valve can crack). The tank is pre-charged with air at 7 psi when empty. Tank can be laid on its' side (horizontal) if necessary - tank will hold between 2 to 3 gallons of R.O. water).

Item 11 - Tubing

Filter changing and servicing may require added tubing for better maneuvering. Therefore it is best to leave extra tubing and thereby may your serving easier. It is not necessary to extend the drain tubing). Hand tighten all fittings firmly by hand then approximately 2 full turns with a wrench. Be certain to not over do it and strip the plastic threads. Supply Tube - Slide tube through nut on either the tube to length to reach the RO system. Use a razor blade to cut the tube. Be careful to make a the supply valve adapter or the self piercing tap ( which ever one you previously installed) and then slide on plastic ferrule with the tapered end facing the seat on the fitting. Cut the tubing smooth, flat, and with a square cut. Do not crush tube. Next, firmly insert the tube into fitting on the supply valve adapter or self piercing tap. Tighten firmly with a wrench. Using the procedure described above, connect the other end to the water inlet (this is the first filter housing that holds the sediment pre filter). This is the connector on the side of the filter housing that does not already have a tube hooked up to it. Tighten firmly. Tank Tube - Place tank and filter cartridges into their positions under the sink. Connect 1/4 inch tube to fitting on the end of the carbon post filter. (this fitting is a Tee fitting) Tighten firmly. Connect the other end of the tube to the tank valve. Tighten firmly. Faucet Tube - Connect 1/4 inch tube to threaded connector on the bottom of the faucet. This is the center post of the faucet. Use supplied hex nut and plastic ferrule. Determine the length of tubing required between the faucet and the Tee on the carbon post filter. Cut the tubing to length and connect one end of the tubing to the hex nut on the faucet and the other end to the RO system. Tighten firmly.

Drain Tube - Connect 1/4 inch tube to the RO system drain fitting. This is the fitting on the end of the membrane housing with two outlets. The drain outlet has the fitting with the flow restrictor inside the fitting. Insert the tubing into the nut on the fitting and then tighten the nut firmly. Now connect the other end to the drain saddle that you installed previously. Tighten firmly.

Item 12 - System Start-Up Instructions

Check to be certain the storage tank valve is turned off so that no water may enter tank. Turn on the cold water supply valve to the sink. Next, check for leaks around the supply valve adapter or self piercing valve (which ever you have installed). Open the R.O. faucet you have installed on the sink. Open the valve on the supply valve adapter or self piercing tap to turn on water to the RO system. You will hear water gurgling and filling the RO system. Water may take 10-15 minutes before dripping out faucet and at first may be dark in color. Let the water drip out of faucet for a minimum of 15 minutes and then close faucet. Open ball valve on storage tank. Let tank fill for 6 to 10 hours (if you are changing filters, your tank may already be full, so you would not need to wait). Then open R.O. faucet. Drain the tank completely (about 15 minutes). When you have completely drained the tank, shut the R.O. faucet off. Let the RO system fill the storage tank again and then drain the tank in 6 to 10 hours.

DO NOT DRINK THE R/O WATER UNTIL TANK HAS BEEN DRAINED TWO TIMES. STARTING WITH THE THIRD TANK FULL IS WHEN YOU WILL BE ABLE TO DRINK THE WATER!!! Check for leaks daily for the first week and occasionally thereafter.

21. How do I install my Self Piercing Valve ?

When installing the "Self Piercing Tap Valve" on copper lines be certain to install it in-line after the cold water shut-off valve (never install on the hot water line). Mount and tighten the "self piercing valve" on the copper line in a easy to reach location. Turn the saddle valve clockwise all the way in. This will drive the sharp end of a sharp metal pierce into the copper tubing and will pierce a tiny hole. When the saddle valve has been turned all of the way in, the valve is the "off" position for your new RO system. Do not do anything further with the saddle valve at this time. Leave it like this until later in the installation process.

22. Storage Tank Information and Instructions

Storage Tank Preparation

If your tank does not have the ball valve installed, wrap the threads on the tank with Teflon tape (do not use pipe compound). It is best to use 5 or 6 rounds of Teflon tape to wrap the threads on the tank.

Install the ball valve on the Teflon taped threads on the storage tank. Tighten until secure but do not over tighten and damage the ball valve.

The storage tank has been pre-charged with air at 7 psi when the tank was empty. This tank can be laid on its' side if necessary. Remember this is a bladder tank and the more air that is inserted into the tank, the less water capacity the tank will have.

The RO system comes with a 4.5 gallon storage tank. Should your water usage require a larger storage tank, visit our storage tank store to see larger storage tank options.

Tank Problem Solving and Maintenance

Low storage capacity in the tank is most usually the result of an under inflated storage tank. If when you activate the faucet, you can only get a few glasses of water at a time, empty tank air pressure is the first thing to check. Systems with under inflated tanks can continue to run too long and quickly foul a membrane, requiring membrane replacement. Systems that continue to run can also be in need a flow restrictor.

Symptoms of RO storage tank low air pressure or bladder failure:

1. System Runs frequently
2. Dispensing is slow and with low pressure from the faucet
3. If the tank is still heavy, after opening the faucet and allowing all of the water to drain from the tank, you have a bladder failure.

Keep your system operating properly, check the tank pressure each six months when you change the filters.

Maintaining the proper pressure (7 to 10 PSI when empty of water) will help avoid the membrane and filters from prematurely becoming exhausted or fouled. It is important to monitor the pressure and correct it if it is not maintaining the proper pressure.

Proper tank pressure (7 to 10 PSI) needs to be maintained for the hydraulic functions of the water to work correctly within the RO system. Tank bladders can lose air pressure just like a tire looses air pressure.

Procedure For Checking Your Storage Tank Pressure:

1. Turn the water off on the RO System's incoming water line.
2. Open the faucet on your RO System and allow the water to run until the flow stops, then close the faucet.
3. Turn off the tank valve.
4. Is the tank heavy - does it have water in it? Does it weight about 15 lbs? If the answer is yes, you will need to replace the tank as the bladder will no longer hold water.
5. The tank has an air stem just like those on a car tire. Just like the auto tire, the air stem is covered. You will need to remove the cap before you can insert air into the stem.
6. If required, you will need to increase or decrease the pressure in the tank to the correct PSI (7 to 10 lbs.). You can use a standard bike pump or a compressor. This is a low pressure system so be careful when inputting additional air as over inflation can damage the bladder.
7. Then open the tank valve followed by opening the incoming water valve.
8. Permit the tank to fill, depending on your RO membrane size, this may take a few hours. When filled, determine if the system now operates properly after you corrected the air pressure.

If you still have a problem, you likely have ; RUPTURED AIR BLADDER IN TANK: Reverse Osmosis tank bladders do fail, requiring replacement of the tank. If the bladder in the tank starts to leak air, and water enters the air side of the bladder, the tank will have to be replaced. As described above, open the faucet and drain all of the water from the tank. When you pick the tank up, if the tank feels heavy as if it is full even though you can't get water out of the faucet, the bladder is ruptured. The air stem may show signs of dampness from the water that passed to the air side of the bladder. We offer Replacement RO Tanks.

23. Taste Difference Between Water From RO and Carbon Filters

If you are on tap water it is somewhat of a taste preference. Carbon filters are similar to a mountain spring water, reverse osmosis is purified water. Carbon filters do not remove dissolved minerals which impart a unique taste on the water. In some areas this is perceived as a good taste, others as a bad taste. Reverse osmosis removes over 90% of dissolved minerals. These minerals can be both harmless and harmful depending on the water source. In most source water today, the contaminants in tap water have reached the level where the harmful minerals far out-weigh the harmless and correspondingly, acceptable quality drinking water can only be obtained by using reverse osmosis.

24. Do filters affect TDS (Total Dissolved Solids)?

Filters do not impact TDS. The total dissolved solids in the water are dissolved and as such they can not be filtered out. The micron rating of any filter will not have a direct impact on TDS. In fact to prove this to your self, test the incoming water, and then test the water after the filters. Use any micron rating you might like to try and the results will be the same - no impact on the TDS. Filters do not and can not remove dissolved solids. (TDS) Total Dissolved Solids can be removed from water by Reverse Osmosis, Distillation and DI. The only role of a sediment filter is the removal of particulate matter or sediment. Material floating around in water is not part of the dissolved solids. When a substance is dissolved into water it is ionized or becomes an ion. That Ion can not be effectively filtered by anything larger than the pores in a RO membrane. RO membranes pores are hundreds of times smaller than the smallest rated micron filter you can find (RO membrane pores are measured in angstroms, not microns). The term DI stands for deionization, and this process is the removal of the TDS from water by cation and anion attraction to resins. Distillation is the removal of water vapor from the dissolved solids. Distillation and Deionization are more effective than Reverse Osmosis but nothing is more environmentally friendly or as inexpensive as RO. So the almost perfect system for abundant, easy, economical water is the RO/DI combination.

25. What are Total Dissolved Solids (TDS)?

1. "Dissolved solids" refer to any minerals, salts, metals, cations or anions dissolved in water. This includes anything present in water other than the pure water (H20) molecule and suspended solids. (Suspended solids are any particles/substances that are neither dissolved nor settled in the water, such as wood pulp.)

2. In general, the total dissolved solids concentration is the sum of the cations (positively charged) and anions (negatively charged) ions in the water.

3. Parts per Million (ppm) is the weight-to-weight ratio of any ion to water.

4. Conductivity is usually about 100 times the total cations or anions expressed as equivalents. Total dissolved solids (TDS) in ppm usually ranges from 0.5 to 1.0 times the electrical conductivity.

5. A TDS meter that is used by a home owner to measure the TDS of the incoming water and the TDS of the RO water produced by the home owners RO system. The comparison of these two readings will tell the home owner when to replace the filters and the RO membrane.

Additional Information

a. Some dissolved solids come from organic sources such as leaves, silt, plankton, and industrial waste and sewage. Other sources come from runoff from urban areas, road salts used on street during the winter, and fertilizers and pesticides used on lawns and farms.

b. Dissolved solids also come from inorganic materials such as rocks and air that may contain calcium bicarbonate, nitrogen, iron phosphorous, sulfur, and other minerals. Many of these materials form salts, which are compounds that contain both a metal and a nonmetal. Salts usually dissolve in water forming ions. Ions are particles that have a positive or negative charge.

c. Water may also pick up metals such as lead or copper as they travel through pipes used to distribute water to consumers.

26. Tubing Installation

It is suggested that you provide additional tubing during installation to all tubing sections except the drain tubing. This will make future servicing and filter changing easier.

When tightening Jaco type fittings, be certain to not over tighten the fittings. Hand tighten fittings firmly by hand and then add 1 1/2 to 2 full turns with the proper wrench. Don't over do it and strip the threads.

Self-Piercing Valve - Water Supply

Insert tubing through nut on "SELF PIERCING TAP" and then slide on plastic ferrule with the tapered end facing the seat on the fitting. Next, firmly insert the tubing into the saddle valve you installed on the water line. Firmly tighten the nut with a wrench. Cut the tubing to length to reach the RO system, remembering to allow sufficient tubing for servicing the system. Use a sharp blade (knife or razor blade) to cut the tube. Make a smooth and square cut. Do not mash the tubing. Now insert the newly cut tubing into the quick-connect fitting on the filter housing that holds the sediment pre filter. This is the quick-connect fitting on the side of the filter housing that does not already have a tube hooked up to it.

4.5 Gallon Tank - Storage Tank Tubing

Place the storage tank and RO system into their selected positions under the sink. Next, connect 1/4" tubing to the "Tee" quick-connect fitting on the end of the in-line post filter. Now, connect the other end of the tubing to the quick-connect fitting on the storage tank valve.

RO Faucet - Faucet Tubing

Connect 1/4" tubing to threaded connector on the bottom of the faucet. This is what is know as the center post of the faucet. Use the supplied brass hex nut and plastic ferrule. Cut the tubing to length and connect the other end to the "elbow" fitting on the in-line carbon.

Drain Saddle - Drain Tubing

Connect 1/4" tubing to the RO system drain outlet fitting on the end of the membrane housing with tow outlets. This is a compression type fitting which has the flow restrictor already installed in the fitting. Tighten the compression fitting firmly so the tubing will not pull out of fitting. Cut tubing to length and connect the other end to the drain saddle that you installed earlier. Tighten firmly.

27. Whole House Filter System

Installation Instructions - 3/4 Inch Inlet/Outlet Ports

1. Determine water to be filtered - ie, where to install the unit.
2. Obtain plumbing fittings and pipe or tubing required ( Note: 3/4 inch female pipe threads in filter housing head).
3. It is recommended to have a shut-off valve both before and after the whole house unit. The shut off before the unit is to cut the source water supply off and the shut off after the unit is to prevent water draining back through the unit (from pipes located above the height of the whole house unit installation level) when you remove the housings to change the filters.
4. Mount unit to wall or other suitable location of your choice. You may need to remove the bracket from the housing to attach the bracket to the wall.
5. Turn off water supply and bleed pressure off at the lowest point of water use.
6. Install required fittings to properly attach the whole house unit in the supply water line.
7. Insert the filters into the housings - the sediment filter will be in the first housing to see the incoming water and the carbon block filter in the second housing.
8. Prior to turning the water on, be certain you properly tighten the housings with the housing wrench.
9. Turn source water on and check for water leaks as you have now successfully installed your new whole house water filter.

Installation Instructions - 1 Inch Inlet/Outlet Ports

1. Determine water to be filtered - ie, where to install the unit.
2. Obtain plumbing fittings and pipe or tubing required ( Note: 1 inch female pipe threads in filter housing head).
3. It is recommended to have a shut-off valve both before and after the whole house unit. The shut off before the unit is to cut the source water supply off and the shut off after the unit is to prevent water draining back through the unit (from pipes located above the height of the whole house unit installation level) when you remove the housings to change the filters.
4. Mount unit to wall or other suitable location of your choice. You may need to remove the bracket from the housing to attach the bracket to the wall.
5. Turn off water supply and bleed pressure off at the lowest point of water use.
6. Install required fittings to properly attach the whole house unit in the supply water line.
7. Insert the filters into the housings - the sediment filter will be in the first housing to see the incoming water and the carbon block filter in the second housing.
8. Prior to turning the water on, be certain you properly tighten the housings with the housing wrench.
9. Turn source water on and check for water leaks as you have now successfully installed your new whole house water filter.

28. Which Whole House Filters should I use ?

Filters for a whole house system and micron ratings

We recommend using what we refer to as a step-down progressive system. The idea behind a step down micron rating system of filters is to provide for optimum pressure and longer filter life. Be certain to check that the sediment and carbon block filters you purchase are NSF and FDA certified and approved. Do not use GAC (Granulated Activated Carbon) filters in a whole house system as the incoming water pressure is too great and the GAC filter will channel (GAC filters work well as post filters in Reverse Osmosis systems).

A filter step-down progressive system is designed so that each filter does the work required of it, and protects the next filter in line. Over loading the first filter, by using a low micron sediment filter, will only cause the first filter to plug and just load it up immediately, causing a great deal of pressure loss.

For two filter whole house systems, we recommend the use of a ten (10) micron sediment and either a five (5) or a one (1) carbon block. The ten micron sediment filter has removed the dirt and sediment over ten microns from the water, protecting the five micron carbon filter. Now the work horse of filters (carbon block) can remove contaminants between 5 and 10 micron because the 10 micron sediment has already removed the larger particles.

When you have a three filter system, we recommend: 1) use a ten (10) micron sediment filter for your first stage, not a lower micron rated filter! 2) Next, install a quality five micron (5) carbon block filter for the second stage. The ten micron filter has removed the dirt and sediment over ten microns from the water, protecting the five micron filter. Now the work horse of filters (carbon block) can remove contaminants between 5 and 10 micron because the 10 micron sediment has already removed the larger particles. 3) In the third stage, install a one (1) micron carbon block filter. You have now accomplished filtration down to one micron. You have not plugged up your system and thereby avoided a great deal of pressure loss. So to summarize; the ten protects the five, the five protects the one, and the one micron carbon block will provide you quality whole house water.

29. What are the Basis Components of a Reverse Osmosis System?

1. Cold Water Line Saddle Valve: Saddle Valve that fits onto the cold water supply line. The saddle valve has a piercing needle that penetrates into the cold water line to supply the water for the RO system.

2. Pre-Filter (s): Water from the cold water supply line enters the RO pre filters first. There are two or three pre-filters used in a reverse osmosis system. The first pre-filter used will be a sediment filter. This filter is used to remove sand silt, dirt and other sediment. Next is a carbon block filter which is used to remove chlorine and chemicals from the incoming water. When a RO system has 3 pre-filters, the third filter will also be a carbon block filter.

3. Reverse Osmosis Membrane: The reverse osmosis membrane is the heart of the system. The most commonly used is a spiral wound TFC membrane (thin film composite/material). CTA (cellulose tri-acetate) can be used when carbon block pre-filters are not required, however this type of membrane is not very popular in today's environment.

4. Post filter (s): After the water leaves the RO storage tank, but before going to the RO faucet, the product water goes through the post filter (s). The post filter is generally carbon (either in granular or carbon block form). Any remaining tastes and odors are removed from the product water by post filtration.

5. Automatic Shut Off Valve (ASO): To conserve water, the RO system has an automatic shutoff valve. When the storage tank is full (this may vary based upon the incoming water pressure) this valve stops any further water from entering the membrane, thereby stopping water production. By shutting off the flow this valve also stops water from flowing to the drain. Once water is drawn from the RO drinking water faucet, the pressure in the tank drops and the shut off valves opens, allowing water to flow to the membrane and waste-water (water containing contaminants) to flow down the drain.

6. Check Valve: A check valve is located in the outlet end of the RO membrane housing. The check valve prevents the backward flow of product water from the RO storage tank. A backward flow could rupture the RO membrane.

7. Flow Restrictor: Water flow through the RO membrane is regulated by a flow control. There are many different styles of flow controls. This device maintains the flow rate required to obtain the highest quality drinking water (based on the gallon capacity of the membrane). It also helps maintain pressure on the inlet side of the membrane. Without the flow control very little drinking water would be produced because all the incoming tap water would take the path of least resistance and simply flow down the drain line. The flow control is located in the RO drain line tubing.

8. Storage Tank: The standard RO storage tank holds up to 4.5 gallons of water. A bladder inside the tank keeps water pressurized in the tank when it is full.

9. Faucet: The RO unit uses its own faucet, which is usually installed on the kitchen sink. In areas where required by plumbing codes an air-gap faucet is generally used.

10. Drain line: This line runs from the outlet end of the reverse osmosis membrane housing to the drain. This line is used to dispose of the impurities and contaminants found in the incoming water source (tap water). The flow control is also installed in this line.

30. What is Ultraviolet?

Ultraviolet light (UV) is energy at the invisible violet end of the light spectrum. Even though we can't see UV light we are exposed to UV rays from all light sources, including the sun.

31. How does ultraviolet light purify water?

UV rays penetrate the cells of harmful bacteria and viruses in our drinking water destroying their ability to reproduce. Without the ability to reproduce, these organisms die and no longer pose a health threat. UV is a low cost and highly effective process for destroying 99.99% of harmful microorganisms.

32. Why not use chlorine instead?

Chlorine not only unfavorably changes the taste and odor of water, but chlorination can also produce harmful by-products called Trihalomethanes (THMs) which have been linked to cancer.

33. Does a UV system use a lot of energy?

No. A UV system uses the same amount of energy as a 60 watt light bulb. UV is an extremely cost effective way to treat water.

34. Why do UV purifiers require sediment pre-filtration?

UV systems require pre-filtration to maintain effectiveness as sediment and other contaminants in the water can create a "shadow" which prevents the UV rays from reaching and disinfecting the harmful microorganisms.

35. How often does the UV light bulb (lamp) need to be replaced?

The ability of the lamp to emit UV light decreases over time. You should change the UV lamp annually. Remember - UV light is invisible! Even though the lamp is still glowing after one year, there might not be enough UV light reaching your water to be effective.

36. What is "cross flow" in a Reverse Osmosis system?

Quality reverse osmosis systems use a process known as cross flow to allow the membrane to continually clean itself. As some of the fluid passes through the membrane the rest continues downstream, sweeping the rejected contaminants away from the membrane and down the drain. This prevents contaminants from backing up against the membrane and clogging it.

37. What does a Permeate pump do to improve my RO system?

A permeate pump is a simple, yet revolutionary devise. Powered only by the hydraulic energy of the brine water lost to the drain (i.e. no electricity required), the permeate pump forces product water into the storage tank, reducing membrane back pressure and maximizing available feed pressure. These pumps dramatically improve the efficiency of the RO systems water production, while reducing wastewater by up to 80%. In other words if your current system requires 6, 7 or more gallons of tap water to produce a gallon of pure water, adding a Permeate Pump should reduce this ratio below 3:1. Permeate Pumps can also bring storage tanks up to line pressure and then shut the system down when these tanks reach capacity, eliminating the need for a hydraulic shut-off valve. Other benefits include higher delivery pressures, faster R.O. water production, superior water quality, and extended filter/membrane life.

A Reverse Osmosis drinking water system requires strong water pressure to force water through the R.O. membrane and at the same time to flush the contaminants (bad elements) to the drain. The lower the water pressure, the less "good" water (permeate) you get and the more "waste" water you send to the drain. The average membrane rating is based on a constant feed water pressure of (50) psi using 77 degree water. The average "real life" application provides much less favorable conditions than this. The end result is that your R.O. system is drastically under-performing because of lower pressure and water temperature. To make matters worse, the pressure storage tank that stores your RO. water compounds this problem. When full the RO. storage tank has an internal pressure of about 60% of your tap water . This pressure is fighting the inlet water pressure (water coming into your RO system from your tap water source). The inlet water pressure is trying to force water through the RO membrane and into the tank. Even if you have good incoming water pressure of 60 psi, as the tank gets close to full, the actual pressure on the membrane is only 20 psi because of the off-setting pressure from the storage tank. This will result in reduced permeate (good water) production and vastly increase the flow of water to the drain.

A permeate pump will improve water quality through better membrane efficiency. In the typical RO system, increased tank pressure causes decreased pressure across the membrane. This decreased pressure causes a substantial decline in system performance and efficiency. A Permeate Pump enhanced RO system maintains full pressure across the RO. membrane, even as tank pressure reaches its maximum levels. This reduced back pressure from the storage tank ensures better water quality (maximum TDS reduction), longer filter life and extended membrane life. In the standard RO. system, increased tank pressure results in decreased recovery rates. A Permeate Pump enhanced RO system, by automatically minimizing back pressure will accelerate recovery rates (and reduce tank refill times) by up to 65%. Reduces wastewater. In typical R.O. systems, several gallons of wasted tap water (discharged to drain) are required to create a single gallon of purified R.O. water. A Permeate Pump enhanced R.O. system, will reduce wastewater by up to 80%.

38. How does the Permeate Pump reduce waste water by 80%?

The product water production rate is dependent on the pressure across the membrane, while the waste water production rate is mostly dependent on tap water pressure. As a bladder tank fills with water, its back pressure quickly starts to reduce the working pressure across the membrane, while the waste water flows as always. A curve can be plotted that shows progressively worsening ratios as the tank continues to fill. Half-way through the filling time, the ratio is already 8 or 10 to 1 and can be higher than 20:1 at the moment the ASO valve shuts off completely. The permeate pump makes the membrane perform like the bladder isn't there. The pump removes the pressure from the back side of the membrane and allows the system to function as if it were not forcing water into a tank. All of the work goes into making water. So, yes the pump can save up to (80%) of the normal waste water. The permeate pump works to eliminate this line pressure and allows the water to flow freely through the membrane and into the tank. An added benefit to the permeate pump is it drastically reduces the amount of waste water an RO produces. These pumps are used for pressure ranges from 30-75psi

A RO unit with a permeate pump and 60 psi coming in will continue to produce water until pressure in the tank reaches almost 60 psi. This is especially helpful for low-pressure installations. If, for example, you have a well system that provides only 40 psi, a standard RO unit will run, but it won't run well. The unit will shut down when tank pressure reaches 25 psi or so. With a permeate pump, the unit will put almost the full 40 psi into the storage tank.

What's best about the permeate pump, though, is the increased efficiency. With a standard shutoff system, as the storage tank fills, the RO unit must push against an increasing amount of storage tank pressure. With the permeate pump, the unit is shielded from this pressure and the membrane works in a virtually pressure-free situation, even when the tank is almost full.